Bun & Toor

Bun or bun sharuur is whole coffee beans with hull that are deep fried in ghee or oil. For Somalis, it is a delicacy that many associate with rituals. It is deeply tied to religious ceremonies whether small or large. Whenever there are prayer gatherings and feasts, the bun is a must. So much so that it became almost a necessity to offer it.

Wadaads (religious men) who come to the ceremonies to recite the Qur’an as well as other supplications, are the ones who are first offered the bun. The kur, the vessel in which the bun is served, is taken around the room so that everyone can inhale the aroma of the freshly prepared bun. Bun is usually eaten just a few at a time by placing two or three of the still hot, fried beans as well as a little of the ghee or oil in the palm of the hand. The beans are eaten off the palm and any remaining ghee is applied to the forehead.

Supplications are recited as the coffee beans are prepared for frying. There are supplications that are also recited when the fried beans are presented to the gathering. The final supplications are offered after consuming the bun. These supplications depend on the occasion. For example, families will sometimes host a prayer gathering to pray for a cure for a sick family member and the supplications are offered for that. Many families also hold small, weekly dhikr gatherings, usually on Fridays, and the supplications will be for warding off evil and getting blessings in one’s life. Some families host dhikr gatherings twice weekly, on Wednesdays and Fridays. It was believed that the angels like the smell of bun and they would visit the house where it is fried.

For the Sufi orders of Somalia, the heritage of the bun is an important part of the dhikr sessions. The recital and supplications can take several hours and chewing the bun helps the wadaads stay alert and it gives them energy. Somalis had a lot of regard and respect for wadaads and the bun that was prepared for them was fried with the best ghee available. When a prominent sheikh was offered bun fried in oil, he said as if addressing the bun:

Aw bunoow warkaa la helyee, burcadaa ku roon tahay!

Oh! bun. Your secret has been unearthed: your are best with ghee!

The hosts understood what he meant and they scrambled to fry another batch in ghee.

In some parts of Somalia, the bun is prepared for honouring guests and is presented after the meal. The special honour that was reserved for wadaads is extended to the guests.

Eating bun is also a morning ritual for some Somalis. It forms an important part of the breakfast. After eating bun, the ghee or oil is applied to the face making it ready to meet the world. This is known as foolbaxsi and it beats applying the best beauty lotions out there. The face will shine like a mirror and it will reflect the sunlight like varnish.

This reminds me of Daada, my paternal grandmother, who lived in Brava, Somalia. Her name was Hagia Ruqiya Madgabo Rufai and whenever I visited her in the mornings, she would rub sesame oil on my face. I disliked it but out of respect for her I never objected. As soon as she was out of sight, I would wipe off the oil. I should have known better.

Bun also forms part of the toor, which is a topping for ambulo and is also a snack on its own. The basic toor consists of bun, corn nuts or popcorn, sugar, and some of the ghee or oil in which the coffee beans for the bun were fried. Fancier versions of the toor have raisins and small bits of candy added. The bitterness of the fried coffee beans is offset by the sweet additions.

When preparing bun the traditional way, the hull is broken a little by biting it with the teeth. This helps get the hot oil inside the hull. However, when boiling the beans, water will also get inside and this can cause a lot of sputtering during frying. We did not break the hull but decided instead to use medium heat to give the beans ample time to cook fully and become very crumbly.

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