These past few days, it has been raining quite hard. We love watching heavy downpours when we are staying at home, curled up in a blanket, and having no need to go outside. These heavy rains coincide with the Gu which is the main rainy season (April to June) in Somalia. Back there, we used to love sitting in the veranda, watching and listening to the rain.

Weather like this calls for comfort food and what comfort food is better than Anjero with a nice, aromatic, and deeply flavourful lamb stew. OK, there are some of you out there who have not had lamb or do not like the strong flavour of lamb. Rest assured. This is one lamb dish you really want to try. The aromatic spices, herbs, and the earthy flavour of the root vegetables temper some of the taste of the lamb. Still not convinced? In that case, substitute the lamb with chicken or beef, or make it vegetarian, and you will still end up with a stew that will make your taste buds and tummy really thankful.

This dish is about adding the different ingredients each at its right time. The lamb should be soft and tender, and the vegetables should retain their shape. The potatoes should not be cut into large cubes, since potatoes take longer to soften in acidic liquids like tomato sauces.

As some of you have noticed, we use more oil when cooking stews. The oil is important as it will “fry” the stew and give it a nice, caramelly taste. When the stew is ready, the oil separates and floats at the top, making it very easy to remove. Adding enough oil also helps in preventing the stew from sticking to the pot and burning. That is the rationale for the extra oil we use when cooking stews or tomato sauces in general.

Then it was time to sit down and do what Somalis have been doing for a very long time: scooping the stew on top of Anjero. Wait, do not sit down yet. Turn on some Qaraami music, a Somali musical style played with Kaban (Oud). The word Qaraami comes from the Arabic word غرامي which means romantic. What is most important to know though, is that Qaraami goes really well with maraq (stews).

Apart from Anjero, this stew can also be served with Soor (grits), plain rice, Sabaayad (chapati), or a nice, crusty bread. Somalis would also eat this with pasta and it would make an amazing sauce instead of regular pasta sauce.

 

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(Tbsp is a tablespoon; tsp is a teaspoon)
(1 cup = 237 mL = 2.4 dl; 1 Tbsp = 15 mL; 1 tsp = 5 mL); all are level measurements
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Daabac Soo’da

Daabac Soo’da oo Sawirro Leh

 

(QW waa qaaddo weyn – midda cuntada lagu cuno; qy waa qaaddo yar)
(1 koob = 237 mL = 2.4 dl; 1 QW = 15 mL; 1 qy = 5 mL)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

اطبع الوصفة – بدون صور

اطبع الوصفة – مع صور

 
كوب = 237 مل، ملعقة كبيرة = 15 مل، ملعقة صغيرة = 5 مل
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My most memorable meal was not the one that I had at a fancy restaurant. It was a plate of beans and rice that I had in Mareer Gur, Somalia. It was the most satisfying meal ever! Somalis call it “federation”, a federation of grains.

In the early hours of that day, I walked from the tiny village of Gadoon and went to the larger village of Mareer Gur located on the road between Dhuusamareeb and Galkayo. It was a distance of about 22 kilometres and in those days that wasn’t too far of a walk for me.

A group of us were having a get together and we converged on Mareer Gur, coming from the surrounding areas. We were taking part in a literacy campaign, teaching people in rural areas how to read and write.

Around noon time, someone came up with the idea of shopping for some rice and meat and then asking a family to cook a meal for us. That way we would save a lot of money instead of going to a restaurant. The plan was put to action and soon we were standing in a circle around the lady who was cooking the rice for us. We already washed our hands in preparation for the meal and water was dripping from our fingertips onto the dry, sandy soil.

The lady was sitting on a gambar (low, four-legged stool) with the pot set on a burjiko (charcoal burning cookstove), fanning the flames with her babbis (hand fan). Seeing how anxious these hungry teenagers were, she did her best to speed up the cooking, switching the babbis from one hand to other and then back. The sun was very hot and there was no shade in the yard. She was perspiring and to make things worse, we were blocking whatever little breeze there was.

The instant the rice was done, it was transferred to a large plate that was placed on a darin (woven mat) and we immediately jostled for position. The rice was piping hot but it was immediately attacked before it got a chance to let off its steam. I saw the other guys scooping fistfuls of rice and I extended my hand reaching for my rightful share. The moment I touched the rice, my hand recoiled in pain. I quickly licked off a grain of rice that stuck to one of my fingers. I looked at the guy sitting to my right and saw him gulp a fistful of rice. I watched in amazement as he threw his head back, opened his mouth, then blew a long column of steam, steam enough to power a freight train. Helplessly, I watched as the plate of rice was cleaned right before my eyes. That was one moment when I regretted my relatively pampered upbringing. With just a few pennies in my pocket, I drank three cups of water and slept off the afternoon and the pain in my fingers.

That evening, I gathered whatever energy I had left in me and headed to the only maqaayad (restaurant) in the village. The street, the only one in the village, was almost deserted. It was dark inside the restaurant, the only light coming from a few kerosene lamps. I sat down and ordered the single meal I could afford: a plate of federation.

There are two keys to this dish. Those who know will tell you that, first, your mouth will need a good dose of sugar to make the stay of the beans welcome as they make their rounds between your jaws. Second, you will need a fair amount of lubricant to transport them to your stomach. I looked beseechingly at my server as he reached for the sugar and oil. The generous man did not disappoint me. He was one of the good people of Galgaduud, a people that I have learnt to love and admire.

The meal hit the spot and I enjoyed every grain of beans and rice. I walked out of the restaurant feeling very energized and ready to take on sleep.

 

Print Recipe

Print Recipe with Photos

 

(Tbsp is a tablespoon; tsp is a teaspoon)
(1 cup = 237 mL = 2.4 dl; 1 Tbsp = 15 mL; 1 tsp = 5 mL); all are level measurements
 

 

 

 

 

When cooking beans, there are two important things to remember:
1- Washing the beans, soaking them, rinsing the soaked beans, and skimming off the foam while cooking, help reduce stomach gasses. 
2- Add salt to the beans in the final stage of cooking, otherwise the salt will toughen the beans and prolong the cooking time.

Decreasing stomach gases will reduce your environmental footprint and help prevent ozone depletion. Dry beans can take a long time to cook. Soaking the beans and adding the salt later will reduce your energy consumption and help save the environment.

 

 

Apart from being a regular on the dinner mat, ambulo is also served on special occasions. When a student completes a juz’ (one of the 30 sections) of the Qur’an, his family bring ambulo to the dugsi (Qur’anic school). The teacher and all the students get to enjoy the ambulo with plenty of sugar and oil.

Another occasion is the Madax Shub or Habar Xasan, Habar Xuseen (Habar Xasan for short). Some also know it as Abbaay Siti and it is a ceremony where prayers are recited and Fatima’s name is invoked, Fatima (ra) being the daughter of Prophet Muhammad (pbuh). This ceremony is conducted to help ease childbirth for those women who are about to deliver. For many women in Somalia, childbirth posed, and still poses, a grave danger to the mother’s life. These ceremonies continue to be performed in the diaspora even though child delivery occurs in hospitals.

For special occasions, ambulo is served with toor (a dressing for ambulo). The toor can be as simple as bun sharuur (fried whole beans in hull), daango (corn nuts), sugar, and oil. This is usually how it served when prayers are held for the deceased. For joyous occasions, the toor is made fancier by the addition of raisins and bits of candy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Raashinka iigu xasuus badan ma ahayn mid aan ka cunay maqaayad aad u heersarreysa. Cuntadaas waxay ahayd digir iyo bariis aan ka cunay Mareer Gur, Soomaaliya. Waxay ahayd cunto aad ii qancisay! Soomaalida waxay u yaqaanaan federeeshan, waana federeeshan ka dhexeeya digir iyo bariis.

Subaxaas ayaan kasoo lugeeyay tuulada Gadoon waxaana abbaaray Mareer Gur oo ku taal dariiqa u dhexeeya Dhuusamareeb iyo Gaalkacyo. Waxaan socday 22 kiiloomitir, beryahaasna socodka intaas le’eg aad ayuu iila fududaa.

Aniga iyo qaar kale oo ka mid ah ardayda ka qeyb qaadanaysay Ololaha Horumarinta Reer Miyiga, ayaan ku ballannay inaan ku kulanno Mareer Gur. Ololahaas waxaa loogu talagalay in reer miyiga lagu baro aqriska iyo qoraalka. Ololaha wuxuu lahaa faa’iido dheeraad ah oo ahayd in dhalinyaro badan ay dalkooda barteen.

Markaan kulannay oo sheekaysannay, waxaa la gaaray waqtiga qadada. Mid naga mid ah ayaa soo jeediyay fikrad in aan soo gadanno bariis iyo xoogaa hilib ah, kaddibna aan reer barinno inay bariiskaas inoo kariyaan. Sidaas ayaa dhaqaale inoogu jiray. Qorshihii isla markii ayaan ku dhaqaaqnay, muddo yar kaddibna waxaan kortaagnayn oo ku wareegsanayn islaan bariiska inoo karinaysay. Gacmaha waan sii dhaqannay, faraheennana biyo ayaa ka tifqaayay.

Islaanta waxay ku fadhiday gambar, digsigana wuxuu saarnaa burjiko. Markay aragtay gaajada naga muuqatay waxay ku dadaashay inay cuntada inoo dedejiso ayadoo si fiican dabka u babbinaysa. Gacan markay daasho, midda kale ayay ku babbinaysay. Qorraxda aad ayay u kululayd, deedkana har ma lahayn. Way dhididaysay, waxaana kulayka uga sii daray anagoo ka xirnay neecawda yar oo jirtay.

Daqiiqadda uu bariiska bislaaday, waxaa lagu geddiyay saxan weyn oo naloo saaray darin deedka tiillay. Qof walba boos ayuu ciriirsaday anagoo garbaha isku riixayna. Baariiska isla markii ayaa la weeraray asagoo weli qaac ka baxaaya. Waxaan arkay dhalinyarada kale oo sacabka la galaayaan, markaasaan anigana gacanta la aaday. Markay farahayga bariiska kulul taabteen, gacanta ayaan isla markii gadaal ula booday. Xabbad bariis ah oo far iiga dhegtay ayaan horey ka leefay si aysan ii sii gubin.

Kan dhinaca midigta iga fadhiyay ayay indhahayga ku daceen. Waxaan arkay asagoo sacab bariis ah afka ku ridtay, horeyna ka liqay asagoon in yarna ruugin. Kaddib, madaxa ayuu gadaal geeyay sida qof cirka fiirinaaya. Afka ayuu kala qaaday markaasuu qaac kulul soo afuufay, qaacaasoo oogada uu taabto nuh siisanaaya. Saxankii bariiska ahaa horteyda ayaa lagu leefay anigoo farahayga gubtay weli afuufaaya. Waan isliiday, waxaana ogaaday inaan ahaa ciyaal maama run ah. Waxaan hooyooyinka uga digaayaa inay caruurtooda shaaha si xad dhaaf ah ugu afuufaan. Anigoo kis yar oo sunuud ah jeebka iigu jirtay ayaan waxaan cabbay saddex koob oo biyo ah, kaddibna intaan meel isduudduubay ayaan gaajada ka seexday.

Maqribka kaddib ayaan u lugeeyay maqaayadda keliya oo Mareer Gur ku tiillay. Mugdi ayay soo noqotay, dariiqana cidlo ayuu ahaa. Maqaayadda iftiin badan ma lahayn, waxaana ifinaayay oo keliya saddex ama afar feynuus. Waan fariistay, waxaana dalbaday waxa keliya aan awooday: saxan federeeshan ah.

Dadka cambuulada yaqaana waxay kuu sheegaayaan inay u baahan tahay laba sheey. Midda koowaad, carrabka wuxuu u baahan yahay sokor aan yarayn oo digirta macaysa inta ay digirta afka dhex meeraysanayso. Tan labaad, dhuunta waxay u baahan tahay dufan roon si ay digirta isla markii caloosha u gudubto oo aysan dhuunta ku dhex hakan.

Ninka cambuulada ii keenany wuxuu arkay sida idhahayga gaajada ka muuqato aan ula raacaayay gacantiisa marka uu sokorta iyo saliidda cambuulada iigu daraayay. Wuxuu ahaa nin deeqsi ah oo naxariis badan, si fiicanna ayuu iigu roonaaday. Reer Galgaduud waxay igu reebeen xasuus fiican, waana dad aan jacayl iyo wanaag u hayo.

Saxankaas cambuulada ah aad ayuu ii qanciyay, si fiicanna ayaan u dhadhansaday. Maqaayadda waxaan kasoo baxay anigoo aad u firfircoon oo hurdo diyaar u ah.

 

Daabac Soo’da

Daabac Soo’da oo Sawirro Leh

 

(QW waa qaaddo weyn – midda cuntada lagu cuno; qy waa qaaddo yar)
(1 koob = 237 mL = 2.4 dl; 1 QW = 15 mL; 1 qy = 5 mL)
 

 

 

 

 

Labada sheey ugu muhiimsan marka digir la karinaayo waa:
1- Hawada caloosha ka buuxsanta marka digirta la cuno waxaa lagu yareen karaa in digirta la dhaqo, biyo lala dhigo, biyahaas laga miiro, la biyo raaciyo, iyo in xumabada laga qaado marka la karinaayo.
2- Cusbada waxaa ku dartaan marka uu kariska wax yar ka dhimman yahay. Haddii cusbada billoowga lagu daro, waxay adkeynaysaa digirta qolofteeda waxayna dheereynaysaa muddada kariska.

Digirta qalalan waxay qaadataa waqti dheer inta ay ka bislaanayso. Haddii biyo lala dhigo, cusbadana gadaal looga daro, waxaa ku dhaqaaloobaysa dhuxul badan.

 

 

Casho kasokoow, cambuulada waxaa la qaddimaa munaasabaadka qaarkood. Markuu arday juz dhammeeyo, reerkiisa waxay dugsiga geeyaan cambuulo. Cambuuladaas waxaa cuna macallinka iyo ardayda oo dhan.

Munaasabad kale waa Madax Shubka ama Habar Xasan, Habar Xuseen (Habar Xasan marka la soo gaabiyo). Dadka qaarkood waxay u yaqaanaan Abbaay Siti, waana munaasabad loogu talagalay qofta xaamilada ah oo bisha sagaalaad gashay, in loo duceeyo in dhalidda ay u fududaato. Munaasabaddaas waxaa lagu soo magac qaada Faatima (Faadumo) oo ahayd gabadha Nabigeenna (nnkh). Faatima oo ahayd hooyada Xasan iyo Xuseen.

Waddankeenna dhalidda waxay ahaan jirtay, welina ay tahay, waxyaabaha halis geliya nolosha hooyada. Soomaali badan ayaa dhaqankaas qurbaha la imaadeen, inkastoo ay dhalidda noqotay wax fudud, dumarkana ay ku dhalaan isbitaallada.

Marka cambuulada la keeno munaasabaadka, waxaa lala qaddimaa toor. Toorka wuxuu caadi ahaan ka kooban yahay bun sharuur, daango, sokor, iyo saliid. Toorka noocaas ah waxaa ku arkaysaa tacsida marka la qabo. Munaasabaadka farxadda leh, toorka waa lasii hashkadeeyaa oo waxaaa lagu daraa sabiib iyo nannac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mon repas le plus mémorable ne s’est pas tenu dans un grand restaurant. C’était une assiette de haricots et de riz que j’ai mangée à Mareer Gur, Somalie. C’était le repas le plus satisfaisant que j’ai jamais mangé! Les Somalis l’appellent “fédération”, une fédération de céréales.

Aux premières heures du jour, je marchai du petit village de Gadoon vers le plus grand village de Mareer Gur situé sur la route entre Dhuusamareeb et Galkayo. La distance était d’environ 22 kilomètres et à cette époque ce n’était pas très loin pour moi.

Notre groupe avait décidé de se réunir, nous convergions tous vers Mareer Gur, depuis les environs. Nous participions à une campagne d’alphabétisation, enseignant la lecture et l’écriture aux habitants des zones rurales.

Vers midi, quelqu’un suggéra d’acheter du riz et de la viande et de demander à une famille de nous cuisiner un repas. Comme ça, nous économiserions beaucoup d’argent au lieu d’aller au restaurant. Nous avons mis notre plan en oeuvre et rapidement nous nous tenions en cercle autour d’une dame qui nous cuisait le riz. Nous avions déjà lavé nos mains en vue du repas et nos doigts humides gouttaient sur la terre sèche et sablonneuse.

La dame était assise sur un gambar (petit tabouret à quatre pieds), sa casserole posée sur un burjiko (fourneau à charbon), attisant les flammes avec son babbis (éventail). Voyant les adolescents affamés et impatients, elle faisait de son mieux pour accélérer la cuisson, passant son babbis d’une main à l’autre. Le soleil était brûlant et il n’y avait pas d’ombre dans la cour. Elle transpirait et en plus nous lui bloquions le peu d’air qu’il y avait.

Dès l’instant où le riz fut prêt, il fut transféré dans une grande assiette posée sur un darin (tapis tressé), et nous autour, nous bousculant pour être bien placés. Le riz était brûlant mais nous l’avons attaqué immédiatement, avant même qu’il ait le temps de fumer. Voyant les autres jeunes attraper le riz par poignées, je tendis la main pour prendre ma part. Au moment où je touchai le riz, ma main recula de douleur. Je léchai rapidement un grain de riz qui était resté collé à un de mes doigts. Je regardai le jeune homme assis à ma droite, il engloutissait une poignée de riz. Étonné, je le vis pencher la tête en arrière, ouvrir la bouche, et souffler un long jet de vapeur, assez de vapeur pour alimenter un train de marchandises. Impuissant, je vis l’assiette de riz disparaître sous mes yeux. A ce moment je regrettai mon éducation un peu trop protégée. N’ayant que quelques centimes en poche, je bus 3 verres d’eau et je dormis tout l’après-midi pour faire passer la douleur dans mes doigts.

Le soir venu, avec l’énergie qui me restait, je suis allé au seul maqaayad (restaurant) du village. La rue, la seule du village, était presque déserte. Il faisait sombre dans le restaurant éclairé seulement par des lampes à pétrole. Je me suis assis et j’ai commandé le seul plat que je pouvais me payer: une assiette de fédération.

Ce plat a besoin de deux ingrédients clés. Ceux qui le savent vous diront, d’abord, votre bouche aura besoin d’une bonne dose de sucre pour que les haricots soient bien accueillis pour faire leurs allées et venues entre vos mâchoires. Ensuite, vous aurez besoin d’une bonne quantité de lubrifiant pour les transporter jusqu’à votre estomac. Je regardais implorant mon serveur qui tenait le sucre et l’huile. L’homme, généreux, ne m’a pas déçu. Il faisait partie des bonnes gens de Galgaduud, un peuple que j’ai appris à aimer et admirer.

Ce repas était parfait, j’ai apprécié chaque haricot et chaque grain de riz. Quand je suis sorti du restaurant je me sentais revivre et prêt à attaquer une nuit de sommeil.

 

Imprimer la Recette

Imprimer la Recette avec Photos

 

(cs est cuillère à soupe; cc est cuillère à café)
(1 mesure = 237 mL = 2.4 dl; 1 cs = 15 mL; 1 cc = 5 mL); mesures à ras
 

 

 

 

 
Pour la cuisson des haricots, il y a deux choses importantes à retenir:
1- Le lavage, essorage, rinçage des haricots trempés et l’écumage pendant la cuisson, aident à réduire les gaz intestinaux.
2- Ajouter le sel en fin de cuisson, sinon le sel durcira les haricots et prolongera leur temps de cuisson.

Diminuer les gaz intestinaux réduira votre impact environnemental et protégera la couche d’ozone. Les haricots secs doivent cuire longtemps. Les faire tremper et ajouter le sel à la fin réduira votre consommation d’énergie et aide à préserver l’environnement.

 

 

En plus d’être un plat de tous les jours, ambulo est aussi servi pour les occasions spéciales. Quand un étudiant a complété un juz’ (une des 30 sections) du Coran, sa famille amène de l’ambulo à la dugsi (école Coranique). Le professeur et tous les étudiants dégustent l’ambulo accompagné de sucre et d’huile.

Une autre occasion spéciale est le Madax Shub ou Habar Xasan, Habar Xuseen (Habar Xasan en forme raccourcie). Il est aussi connu sous le nom de Abbaay Siti, une cérémonie où on récite des prières et on invoque le nom de Fatima, Fatima (ra) étant la fille du Prophète Muhammad (pbuh). Cette cérémonie est organisée pour faciliter l’accouchement des femmes qui sont sur le point de mettre au monde. Pour beaucoup de femmes en Somalie, l’accouchement mettait, et met encore la vie de la mère en danger. Ces cérémonies sont toujours célébrées dans la diaspora même si les accouchements se passent à l’hôpital.

Pour les occasions spéciales, ambulo est servi avec du toor (une garniture pour ambulo). Le toor peut être très simple comme du bun sharuur (grains de café entiers frits dans leurs coques), du daango (grains de maïs grillés), du sucre et de l’huile. On le sert comme ça pour les prières tenues pour les défunts. Pour les occasions joyeuses, on ajoute des raisins secs et des sucreries pour le rendre plus festif.

 

 

 

 

 

 

اطبع الوصفة – بدون صور

اطبع الوصفة – مع صور

 
كوب = 237 مل، ملعقة كبيرة = 15 مل، ملعقة صغيرة = 5 مل